The Chester Beatty

The Storehouse experience was a bit outside of the city center, and when we walked back we passed this beautiful cathedral. Not really in the mood for visiting, we were happy to snap some photos of its exterior at least, as it had a Scandinavian connection.
This cathedral, called the Christ Church Cathedral, was founded in the early 11th century, under the Viking king Sigtrygg Silkeskägg.

We also walked past the Dublin Castle. It was first founded as a defensive work of typical Norman design largely complete in 1230. It served as the seat of the British rule in Ireland for centuries, and is now a major government site. 

The Dublin Gardens, completed in 1680, adjacent to the castle.

We were aiming for the Chester Beatty museum, a place that Ciara had recommended.

This was founded by the mining magnate and collector Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (1875-1968). Beatty, born in America, spent his life collecting rare books, manuscripts, prints and artworks. He eventually formed one of the world's greatest private collections.

He moved to Ireland for a quieter life in 1950, and donated his vast collection to the Irish people in 1953. In gratitude, Ireland granted him honorary citizenship. He was the first person to ever receive that honour.

This museum now tells a global story of religions, art and cross-cultural exchange and continues to be celebrated as one of the top museums in Europe.

And - another place completely free to visit!

On display were delicate Japanese woodblock prints, Chinese jade books, shimmering Qurans written in gold and some of the earliest surviving Christian papyrus texts.

A global collection gathered by one single man, a man with an insatiable curiousity. This collection remains one of Ireland's most remarkable cultural gifts.

Come the late afternoon, it was time for us to say goodbye to Dublin and head to the airport to return to Abu Dhabi. Another week full of adventures and new memories in the books!

 

The Guinness Storehouse experience

The day we were flying home our flight didn’t leave until late evening, so we actually had most of the day to continue to explore Dublin. It was time we did something that was tailored solely for Nathan - the Guinness Storehouse experience!

Well, to be honest, even if I don’t drink Guinness, this self-guided visit through the seven-story pint-shaped building was actually very interesting. 

It felt less like a museum and more like stepping into the living story of the Guinness family. We got to explore every aspect of the birthplace of Ireland’s most iconic stout.

We got introduced to the brewing essentials with the help of interactive displays where we could touch the barley and smell the citrusy punch of the hops. Very sensory, and playful. 

The narrative followed the evolution of a beer that became a global symbol. Vintage advertising posters lined the walls, we saw quirky animals from advertising in decades past, and the famous harp of course.

 

On one level we got to use our noses, and get little tasters, to learn how to enjoy the Guinness properly.

Nathan had a nice little conversation with the taster guide, about the "artworks" on the walls. He wanted to know who was who from the Guinness family, now that he had been busy watching the TV-series.

Talking about art in unexpected places, here some pieces produced using digital tools. These three paintings by the Irish artist James Early captures the rich legacy of Guinness in Dublin, through three themes: buildings, gardens and transport.
His practice is rooted in graffiti, graphic design and his family's heritage in stained glass.

The tour ended up at the Gravity Bar, the circular glass bar on the top floor of the building with a 360-degree outlook to Dublin's skyline. 

Included in the tour was a complimentary pint of Guinness, which we could enjoy surrounded by centuries of brewing heritage, and with the grand views of Dublin.

 

We certainly left with an even deeper appreciation for the craft that goes into making each pint of Guinness. A nice visit!

One night in Dublin

We left the O'Connells on the Monday afternoon, to spend one night in the city center of Dublin, and to be closer to the airport for the next day when it was going-home-time. We had booked us into what ended up being a really lovely hotel on Harcourt Street. So Christmassy and nice, felt like something out of a movie!

We went for a bit of a walk in the evening, to get hold of some Ireland/Dublin Christmas baubles for the tree, and to look around at what we had missed on the Sunday. Temple Bar district for example. 

Glendalough

On the Monday Rory had taken a day off work, and he wanted to take us up to a place called Glendalough (meaning Valley of the Two Lakes), famous for its lakes, forest and hiking trails.

We parked up and went for a walk between the lakes, as they were linked by a wooded valley with streams, waterfalls and meandering pathways.

Ciara told me that in Irish and UK folklore, seeing a Red Robin is strongly associated with visits from deceased loved ones. They say "Robins appear when loved ones are near". How special it was to see this come flutter around us... 🤍

So so SO pretty!

We also explored the monastic settlement founded her in the 6th century. Starting by passing the St Kevin's Church, one of the few buildings at Glendalough that still has its original roof.

This 30m tall tower is an example of the freestanding bell towers that were typical of early medieval Irish monasteries. The original purpose likely combined both refuge, lookout and bell-tower functions.

The largest structure here is the St Peter & St Pauls Cathedral. It was originally built between the 10th and 13th centuries, and although the roof and most of the internal features are gone, much of the nave and some of the structural walls remain. Enough to give quite a good sense of what it once would have looked like.

Then we stopped for lunch on the way home, and had some of the best food I have had in a long time. This is the kind of food I am missing in Abu Dhabi, hearty, home-made and delicious.

What a great excursion! So happy we got to experience this area, somewhere we never would have been able to go if we just came on our own. Thank you O'Connells, for showing us around, for your hospitality - and your friendship!