Tuesday, 4 March 2025

Hagia Sophia

As we were on a roll, and since there was no queues outside Hagia Sophia in the late afternoon, we decided to tick that visit off our list as well! We came only 45 minutes before last entry, but with no queues outside, and almost no people inside, we managed just fine to have a good look around.

This was one of the visits I had looked forward to the most, and it did not disappoint. Hagia Sophia (= Holy Wisdom) is probably the most culturally significant monument in Istanbul, and an innovative architectural marvel.



Hagia Sophia has taken on a multitude of cultural and religious identities throughout the years and the recent shift from being a museum back to a practising mosque has been the center of much attention.
Initially, Hagia Sophia was built as a cathedral in the 4th century, although it burned down and was reconstructed twice. In 537 Justinian I rebuilt it with the structure and current form, although it has undergone many restorations and architectural modifications throughout the centuries since then.



Hagia Sophia was initially the home of the Eastern Orthodox church, once converted to a Catholic church, and reinstated in 1261 as an Orthodox church.

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque. The structure was kept intact, but Islamic elements like Arabic scriptures, minarets and a prayer nice, were added, all that would solidify its new role.
Drawings from this time have shown thought that practically none of the Christian imagery was covered during the majority of the Ottoman reign. This has been seen as a symbol of the link between the important figures who play significant roles in both the Holy Scriptures, the Bible and the Quran.

In 1935 Hagia Sophia was changed into a museum by Kemal Atatürk, founder of modern Turkey. The current president Erdoǧan then decided to reclassify Hagia Sophia back to a mosque in 2020 a decision that has been seen by some as a loss of cultural heritage.



Hagia Sophia is the world's oldest and fastest completed cathedral. When completed in 537 it also became the world's largest interior space and among the very first to employ a fully pendentive dome.
The golden grand central dome is of course one of the most distinctive features, seemingly floating above. It was a technological marvel of its time.

These eight gigantic medallions hanging on the walls are known to be some of the largest calligraphy roundels of the Islamic world. They were written by one of the most famous calligraphers of the 19th century, Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi.



This symbolises the tombstone of Enrico Dandolo, the 'Doge' of Venice who came to Istanbul in 1204 and died here.


All the walls of Hagia Sophia, except the ones covered by marble, have been decorated with exceptionally beautiful mosaics. The geometric mosaics are from the 6th century, while the figured mosaics date back to the Iconoclast period.

This is the Komneus mosaic, which dates from 1122.


The Deisis mosaic, from around 1261, depicting the enthroned Christ between Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. It represents their request for intercession from Jesus for humanity. This is considered to be one of the most beautiful examples of Byzantine art.



There is even a Viking inscription on one of the marble parapets, dating to the 9th century. This runic graffiti says "Halvdan was here", and is believed to have been carved by a Viking soldier serving in the army during the Eastern Roman period.


Figures of four angels are engraved on the pendants. They are depictions of the angels believed to guard the throne of God. The faces of these angels were covered with metal caps during the Ottoman period, but during the mosaic repairs in 2009 they were removed to expose the faces once again.


This 6th century marble door was placed between the south gallery, where officials would hold their religious meetings, and the west gallery. It is said that one side of the marble door represents heaven and the other side hell.


Cats, cats, cats, everywhere in Istanbul, even inside Hagia Sophia.


Lucas and Nathan admiring the 10th century Presentation mosaic with Virgin Mary in the center, with Justinian I on the left, and Emperor Constantine, the founder of the city, on the right:



This door, called "The Beautiful Door", is the oldest architectural element of the mosque. It is made out of bronze, dates back to the 2nd century BCE and was incorporated into the building in 838.


This sure is an iconic travel destination, and with all rights. What an intriguing place so full of history!

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