Lisbon - Day 4 - Sintra

My favourite excursion of the week was our trip to Sintra, and our visit to The Palace of Pena. Andrew very kindly drove us up there, for us to explore. What an amazing enchanting place!

This palace and the whole park that surrounds it were devised by King Ferdinand II, who started work on it in 1839 by renovating a ruined and abandoned Hieronymite monastery. Some spaces of the monastery still remains intact and forms the oldest part of the palace, and it was built by King Manuel (1469-1521).

It is easy to see that King Ferdinand envisioned this as his perfect retreat. This was built during a time when a new mindset had emerged in Europe, one that valued close contact with nature, where the natural growth of vegetation was encouraged.
Here's Nathan in front of the Monumental Gate that gives access to the palace. It makes allusion to the architectural style in Lisbon during the 15th and 16th centuries, a stylistic revival combining many different elements.

King Ferdinand II's Germanic Romanticism shines through in his recreation of an imaginary Middle Ages, transforming the grounds of the former monastery with walls topped by battlements, towers and sentry walks.

The King decided to expand the palace in the 1840s, with a new wing called the New Palace; and also a circular tower and a new kitchen. This is why the palace is in two different colours, it's dusky pink for the former monastery and ochre for the New Palace.

The Great Hall forms the center of the New Palace, and it spans no less than five pairs of windows. The furniture had both Gothic, Renaissance, Tudor and Flemish influences. Initially it was designed as an audience room, but it was also used as a billiards room during the monarchy.

The King had part of his collection of stained glass from Switzerland, Germany and the Netherlands inserted into the central windows. They were so beautiful and detailed.

This cloister, built around 1511 had various types of Hispano-Moorish tiling with geometric motifs decorating the floor.

The dining room has a 16th century Manueline rib-vaulted ceiling and was tiled in the 19th century, and beautiful view.

Another room, where both the ceiling and the walls were completely decorated to look like wood - but it was all painted!

It was absolutely magical! A real fairy tale castle! I loved the whole idea of it!
Here we are on the terrace outside Queen Amelia's apartments:

The Stag Room once served as a banqueting hall of the New Palace. It belongs within the context of Mediaeval revivalism that was typical for King Ferdinand's taste. It combines elements of a trophy room with a knight's room; and isn't it fitting that the King decided to furnish it - with a round table!

The main kitchen, situated very close to the Stag Room. The copper utensils here, original to the Palace of Pena, bear King Ferdinand's seal (a crown over an F) above the initials PP (Palace of Pena).

Having finished the visit inside of the palace, we decided it was time to refuel. The café didn't offer many choices, so muffins, soda and machine coffee it was. At least, it was another stunningly sunny and beautiful day, and the views second to none!

Here's Nathan on the Courtyard of Arches:

Here we got views over the ocean and several other landmark buildings in Sintra, as well as the vestiges of the Pilgrim's Way, the route taken in former times to reach the old monastery church.

The Chapel, the part of the architecture that has remained most unchanged from the time of the monastery.

This is the Arch of the Triton. The lower part of this entrance is decorated with references to the sea, with corals, shells, fins and fish scales. The upper part has Tritons body with has tree branches growing out of his head leading to the vines decorating the window above.

The Palace of Pena has been used as a residence by the Portuguese royal family during two periods of time, first from it's acquisition by King Ferdinand II in 1838 until 1890; and later by King Carlos I. Once he was assassinated and the republic was proclaimed the palace was re-opened to the public in 1911 after being classified as a National Heritage Site. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.

If you ever visit this part of Portugal - do NOT miss Sintra and The Pena Palace!

Lisbon - Day 3 - Cascais & Belém

Day three we met up with an old childhood friend of Nathan's, that he has known since school, Andrew. He used to live in England when we lived there, and that was last time we saw each other, so it was a joyful and long overdue reunion.
He now lives in Portugal, so he came and picked us up for an afternoon along the coast, we drove out to Cascais for lunch.

 

Another gorgeous day, middle of November and it felt like the perfect Scandinavian summers day!

Then we stopped on the way back at the Torre de Belém, the 16th century defensive tower, a jewel of Manueline architectural style, combining Moorish, Renaissance and Gothic elements. Certainly one of Lisbon's emblems.

Good views from here of the Christo Rei monument and the 25 April bridge. We had planned to get over to the south side of the river one of the days, but time ran away from us. Good thing we have something saved to next time!

Time for a sunset hydration break!

I also got to get a closer look at the Padraõ dos Descobrimentos, the monument created on the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator's death in 1960.

It is shaped as the prow of a ship, placed right at the edge of the water.

In the evening, after a little post-sightseeing-siesta, Andrew wanted to take us out for dinner. He had found a restaurant on perfect walking distance from the hotel, where we enjoyed a really lovely meal.

We ended the night at another roof top, with more night views of Lisbon, and more cocktails.

Lisbon - Day 2 - Walking city tour

In the afternoon we had booked a walking guided tour of the center of Lisbon. It was one of these free tours, where you in the end "tip" (=pay) the tour guide what you think it was worth. They seem quite popular, we were a rather large group together with our local tour guide this afternoon.

We walked about for 2,5 hours but made many, many stops where she told us the fascinating history of Lisbon. For example she took us to the Igreja de São Domingos, and the square in front of it which was the place of the Lisbon massacre in 1506:

We got caught in a little bit of rain while in Praça do Comércio, but luckily it ended quickly.

The end of the tour took us to Chiado, where we visited the oldest operating book shop in the world (!), and bought some souvenirs and gifts.

Of course she also took us up a big hill, and we ended up at Largo do Carmo, the ruins of the 14th-century church which now act as a memorial to the 1755 earthquake.

From there we could access the terrace of the Elevador de Santa Justa from its top walkway, without having to actually pay to take the elevator!

Although the views were beautiful, especially like this at night... I just couldn't with the height, so for me it was a quick visit, ha ha! Nathan was more brave and took the below photos:

We finished our day with dinner at a Brazilian steak restaurant. Super delicious, but with "Mickey Mouse-beers" here too..! Lucky the red wine came in big people-sizes!

 

Lisbon - Day 2 - Museo Nacional de Arte Antigua

Day two, after a nice long breakfast at the hotel, we were ready for more exploring. First on the agenda, the first museum of the trip - Museo Nacional de Arte Antigua, the National Gallery of Portugal.
This is housed in a 17th-century palace, and was inaugurated already in 1884.

We walked through many several floors to see the vast collection of European art dating from the 14th to the 19th centuries, including the most complete collection of Portuguese works in the world.

Lots of objects that we have displayed similar ones in the Louvre Abu Dhabi, like Namban Screens for example. I love the sailor hanging by his feet in this illustration below!

This museum also has an extensive collection of Portuguese and Chinese ceramics, over 7500 pieces. It illustrated beautifully the international trade influences, which went both ways - Portuguese faïence that displays traces of Ming, and Chinese porcelain including Portuguese coats of arms.

Lots of beautiful art to enjoy. Quite a few artists that I recognised of course.

Like this portrait, by Elizabeth Vigée-Lebrun:

Here's a detail from The Temptations of St Anthony by Hieronymus Bosch. One of the great prides of the museum, and honestly a fascinating image of fear and fantasy! So many details, such strange motifs!

We took a little break in the museum garden before continuing on our adventures. Another day with absolutely stunning weather! We were a bit surprised, and had packed completely the wrong things. There was hardly no need for knits, puffers or jackets. Nathan ended up wearing just a t-shirt most of the week, and I kept taking the jacket off, putting it on, adding a sweater, removing it...

Next we went walking in the search for the end station of the famous Tram 28-line. I thought we had better luck getting a seat if we started at the end, rather than from the city center.
We went on a huge walk, up and down many hills, only to find that because of track work, the tram didn't go all the way to Prazeres at this time... Ah well!

So we then decided to take a coffee break and test out the famous Pastéis de Nata. Puff pastry filled with custard, mmm! (I had several this week, but the best ones were these freshly made and hot ones from this first place we went to! Om nom nom!

Then we were ready for part two of our day, which will follow in the next post!